Spain
Rioja sits between two of Spain's great food cultures — the Basque Country to the north and Navarra to the east. The result is outstanding: from Logroño's world-famous pintxos scene to Michelin-starred restaurants pairing local produce with aged Gran Reserva. Food and wine are inseparable here.
Elciego · Contemporary Basque-Riojan
Michelin-starred inside the Gehry hotel. The wine list is entirely from the estate and wider Rioja. A once-in-a-visit experience in a spectacular room.
Order: Tasting menu with wine pairing — Gran Reserva Marqués de Riscal as the anchor
Book aheadLogroño · Rioja traditional
The quintessential Rioja lunch — vine-shoot grilled lamb with a pitcher of young Rioja. Simple, genuine, outstanding value. Terraza dining in summer.
Order: Lamb cutlets (chuletillas) over vine shoots, patatas a la riojana, house Rioja by the jug
Book aheadLogroño · Pintxos / bar food
An institution. The correct approach: start at Bar Soriano (champis are iconic), work east along Laurel and San Juan streets, one glass and one pintxo per stop. Busiest and best from 8–10pm.
Order: Champis (mushroom with foie pintxo at Bar Soriano), bacalao pintxo, anything with local young Rioja Blanco
Ezcaray (Rioja Alta) · Creative Riojan
2 Michelin stars in a small mountain village 50km from Logroño. Francis Paniego's cooking defines modern Rioja cuisine. The drive through the Cameros valley is itself worth the trip.
Order: Tasting menu — constantly changes with season and market
Book aheadHaro · Traditional Riojan
Haro's best traditional restaurant for post-bodega lunch. Honest cooking, generous portions, excellent house wines at market prices.
Order: Patatas a la riojana, white beans with chorizo, local Crianza by the glass
Logroño's Calle Laurel is the undisputed star, but don't overlook the wine bar culture in Haro — several bodegas have their own tasting rooms open in the evenings (López de Heredia's 'La Vinoteca' converted wine shop is a gem). In villages throughout the region, the local bar will pour house Crianza by the glass for €2–3 — among the world's great wine bar deals.